Crochet Boho Vest – Perfect for Spring and in a Plus size too!

A Crochet Boho Vest has been on my to-do list for quite a while.   I have received so many requests to design a Boho Vest and I finally did it.  I had been putting it off since it is still winter.  I designed this boho vest using Caron Cakes by Yarnspirations.  These cakes are available exclusively at Michaels stores.  I used a new colorway called Mixed Berry.  I really like how the colors transition nicely and are already coordinated.  It helps when trying to match colors.  There are so many colorways that I’m sure you’ll find a combination you like.

The woman size fits most however,  I did add some directions for a plus size.  The plus size should fit 16 – 18 sizes (maybe even larger) since the pattern allows for a nice drape and extra coverage where we need most, around the tushie. : )     If you would like to purchase an Ad-Free PDF Pattern please click here:   Boho Vest PDF Pattern

Crochet Boho Vest – Front and Back Views

If you are a visual learner I have created 4 Step-by-Step Video tutorials.  The links are in the past page of this post.

Crochet Boho Vest

Pattern by: Yolanda Soto-Lopez

Side view of crochet Boho vest

Size: Women (Fits Most)
Size: Women Plus Instructions given in Red. Work the regular instructions plus add the Plus size instructions.

Gauge:  4dc = 1 inch

Supplies:

2 Caron Cakes by Yarnspirations (Women size) for Plus size you will need 3 cakes
Please note: If you are using a different yarn please check your yardage and weight and be sure to match the weight and purchase enough yardage to complete your project. Women sizes uses up entire 2 cakes. Plus sizes uses just a little of the 3rd cake. (you need 3 for plus size)

J Crochet Hook (6.0mm)
4 stitch markers
Yarn needle
scissors

dc = double crochet
sl st = slip stitch
ch = ch
st = stitch
fpdc = front post double crochet
bpdc = back post double crochet
rep= repeat
sp = space
hdc = half double crochet

To begin: Magic Circle, Ch 3 (counts as double crochet here and thru-out garment), 11 dc, sl st into 3rd ch

Round 2: Ch 4, (first 3 ch is dc and next ch is separation stitch), dc into same st, ch 1, *[dc, ch 1, dc] into next stitch, ch 1* rep from * to * thru round, sl st into 3rd ch

Round 3: ch 3, 2 fpdc, sc into the same dc, ch 3, *2fpdc into next dc, sc into next dc, ch 3* rep from * to * thru out round, ch 2, sl st into 3rd ch (You are skipping the ch-1 stitches)

Round 4: ch 5, (3 counts as dc), skip your fpdc st, sc into next sc, *ch 5, sc into 3rd st, skip fpdc st*, rep from * to *. sl st into sc , (you are creating ch-5 loops)

Round 5: ch 7, sc in center of ch-5 sp (put stitch marker here to keep track or your round), *ch 7, sc-in center of next ch-5 sp *, rep from * to *, when you get to your stitch marker you have reached the end of your round, sc into that ch-5 sp and move your stitch marker up.

Round 6: Repeat Round 4

Round 6: Repeat Round 5

Round 7: ch 1, 3dc into sc st (mini shell made), *ch 1, sc into next ch-5 sp (for plus size it will go into the ch-7 sp), ch 5, sc into next ch-5 sp, * rep from * to *

Round 8: ch-7, sc into 2nd dc of previous row mini-shells, (put in your stitch marker into your ch-7 sp). *ch-7, sc over previous sc st, ch 7, sc into 2nd dc of previous row mini-shells*, rep from * to * (You are creating ch-7 loops thru out round)

Round 9: *ch 5, sc into next ch-5 sp,*, rep from * to * (you are skipping sc st)

Round 9: *ch 7, sc into next ch-7 sp* rep from * to * (you are skipping sc st) .

Round 10: repeat round 9

IMPORTANT: Put Stitch Marker into your SC you made to finish Round 9. (1st stitch marker)

Now you will count each sc to the left of your stitch marker. Total 6 sc
Now put a stitch marker there. (2nd stitch marker)

Now you will count from left to right of your FIRST stitch marker (where the new round began) go over 6 sc and put in another stitch marker. (3rd Stitch Marker)

Placement for stitch markers for arm openings

Count from left to right 6 sc and put your 4th stitch marker there.
You will have a total of 4 Stitch markers. These are the arm openings, The space between the first and 3rd stitch markers (slightly stretched) should be the same measurement as between your shoulders,  This is the upper back area

Please see photo previous page. 

Round 10: Ch 2, 2hdc into first half 7-ch space (left of where you did your last sc from previous round, *skip sc, 7hdc in each ch-7 sp, *, rep from * to * in your last half ch-7 sp work 2 hdc, sl st into 2nd ch

Round 11: Ch 2, 2hdc into first half 7-ch space (left of where you did your last sc from previous round, *skip sc, 7hdc in each ch-7 sp, *, rep from * to * in your last half ch-7 sp work 2 hdc, Sl st into 2nd ch

Arm Openings:

1st Arm Opening (left arm)

Round 11: Ch 50 chains, sc into 2nd st marker (see photo above) this is your left arm openings. (try it on to make sure it fits). Turn work (you will now be working into the chains you just created), hdc into same st, hdc into each ch of arm openings, fasten off. (left arm opening made) You will end up on the wrong side of work.

Right arm opening: (DO NOT remove your Stitch Markers, move them up to the next row)

Attach yarn to 3rd stitch marker. (See photo for reference) chain 50, sc into 4d stitch marker, turn work, hdc into each chain, sl st into next st, *ch 6, sc into 4th hdc (center of each 7hdc set), *rep from * to * until you reach 1st stitch marker. (upper back done)

You will now be working over the left arm openings: *ch 6, skip the next 4 st, sc*, rep from * to * until you reach the 2nd st marker (end of left arm opening).

*ch 6, sc into 4th hdc (center of each 7hdc set), *rep from * to * until you reach 4th stitch marker. (lower back done)

You will now be working over the right arm openings: *ch 6, skip the next 4 st, sc*, rep from * to * until you reach the 3rd st marker (end of right arm opening) sc into your last st, fasten off. (Do not worry if you don’t even have stitches to skip for your last hdc.. just work your hdc into the last st. It’s ok. ) Fasten off

You can now remove all your stitch markers EXCEPT the first stitch marker. This is where you will begin your remaining rounds. This is a good time to sew in any tails.

Round 12: Ch 60, sc into 2nd st marker (see photo above), this is your left arm openings (try it on to make sure it fits. Turn work (you will now be working into the chains you just created), hdc into same st, hdc into each ch of arm openings, fasten off. (left arm opening made) You will end on wrong side of work.

Right arm opening:
(DO NOT remove your Stitch Markers, move them up to the next row)

(Flip work over to right side.) Attach yarn to 3rd stitch marker. (See photo for reference) chain 60, sc into 4th stitch marker, turn work, hdc into each chain, sl st into next stitch,
*ch 6, sc into 4th hdc (center of each 7hdc set), *rep from * to * to 1st stitch marker, (Upper back complete)

You will now be working over the left arm openings: *ch 6, skip the next 4 st, sc*, rep from * to * until you reach the 2nd st marker (end of left arm opening).

*ch 6, sc into 4th hdc (center of each 7hdc set), *rep from * to * until you reach 4th stitch marker. (lower back complete)

You will now be working over the right arm openings: *ch 6, skip the next 4 st, sc*, rep from * to * until you reach the 3rd st marker (end of right arm opening), sc into last st, fasten off. (Do not worry if you don’t even have stitches to skip for your last sc.. just work your hdc into the last st. It’s ok. ) Fasten off. This is a good time to sew in any tails.
You can now remove all stitch markers EXCEPT the first stitch marker. This is where you will begin working your remaining rows.

Round 12 – 13 : Attach yarn to 1st stitch marker stitch (leaving a tail that is easy to sew in) put in stitch marker to mark the beginning of the new round, *ch 6, sc in center of next ch-6 sp* , ch 6, rep from * to *
Round 13 -14 : Attach yarn in 1st stitch marker stitch (leaving a tail that is easy to sew in), put stitch marker in to mark the beginning of the new round, *ch 6, sc in center of next ch-6 sp,*, rep from * to *

Round 14: *ch 1, 4dc into next sc, ch 1, sc into next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next sc, sc in ch-6 space*, repeat from * to *

Round 15: *ch 1, 4dc into next sc, ch 1, sc into next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next sc, sc in ch-6 space*, repeat from * to *

Round 15 : *Ch 6, sc into 3rd dc (center stitch of previous rows shells), ch 6, sc into center of ch-6 space* repeat from * to *

Round 16 -19: Repeat Rows 14 – 15 2 more times. Each time you begin a new round your stitch marker will be moved one space over to the right.

Round 16 : *Ch 6, sc into 3rd dc (center stitch of previous rows shells), ch 6, sc into center of ch-6 space* repeat from * to *

Rounds 17 – 22: Repeat Rows 15 and 16 3 times. Each time you begin a new round your stitch marker will be moved one space over to the right.

Round 20 – 30 : Ch 6, *sc into third dc (of previous rows shell), ch 6, sc in center of next ch-6 sp *, repeat from * to * around entire round

Round 23 – 33: Ch 6, *sc into third dc (of previous rows shell), ch 6, sc in center of next ch-6 sp *, repeat from * to * around entire round

Round 31: ch 3 (counts as dc – put stitch marker into 3rd chain), 3dc into same ch-6 sp, ch 2, * 4dc into next ch-6 space, ch 2 , rep from * to * repeat from * to *, sl st into 3rd ch

Round 34: ch 3 (counts as dc – put stitch marker into 3rd chain), 3dc into same ch-6 sp, ch 2, * 4dc into next ch-6 space, ch 2 , rep from * to * repeat from * to *, sl st into 3rd ch

Round 32: sl st, (you will be in 2nd dc), ch 3 (counts as dc), dc, *ch1, skip next dc, 2dc into next ch-2 sp, ch 1, skip next dc, dc in next 2 st*, rep from * to *, sl st into 3rd ch

Round 35: Sl st, (you will be in 2nd dc), ch 3 (counts as dc), dc, *ch1, skip next dc, 2dc into next ch-2 sp, ch 1, skip next dc, dc in next 2 st*, rep from * to *, sl st into 3rd ch

Round 33 – 34: ch 3, dc in each stitch, sl st into 3rd ch

Round 36 – 37: ch 3, dc in each stitch, sl st into 3rd ch

You will be working shells in this round. Shell = [ 2dc, ch1, 2dc ] in same stitch

Round 35: ch 3, ch 1, [1dc into same st, ch 1, 2dc] into same st, ch 2, *skip next 2 ch, [2dc, ch 1, 2dc] into same stitch (shell made), ch 2*, rep from * to * sl st into 3rd ch (don’t worry if you have less ch left at end of round.)

You will be working shells in this round. Shell = [ 2dc, ch1, 2dc ] in same stitch

Round 38: ch 3, ch 1, [1dc into same st, ch 1, 2dc] into same st, ch 2, *skip next 2 ch, [2dc, ch 1, 2dc] into same stitch (shell made), ch 2*, rep from * to *, sl st into 3rd ch (don’t worry if you don’t have enough ch left at end of round)

You will be working shells in this round. Shell = [ 2dc, ch1, 2dc ] in same stitch

Final Round
Round 36: sl st over 2 stitches until you are in the middle of the previous rows shell, ch 2, [1dc, ch 1, 2dc] into same st, ch 2, [2dc, ch 1, 2dc] into center of previous rows shell, ch 2, sl st into 3rd ch, fasten off, sew in tails.

You will be working shells in this round. Shell = [ 2dc, ch1, 2dc ] in same stitch

Final Round
Round 39: sl st over 2 stitches until you are in the middle of the previous rows shell, ch 2, [1dc, ch 1, 2dc] into same st, ch 2, [2dc, ch 1, 2dc] into center of previous rows shell, ch 2, sl st into 3rd ch, fasten off. Sew in your tails.

If you want your vest to be longer you can continue repeating the last round however you may need to purchase more yarn.

If you are a visual leaner or prefer to watch the Video tutorials please go to the next page.  I hope you enjoyed this project.  Remember, you can purchase an Ad-Free PDF Pattern Here:    Boho Vest PDF Pattern

Crochet Boho Vest  Video Tutorials:

Video Playlist

I hope you enjoyed this project.  It will be so much fun to wear during the warm weather.    XOXO – Yolanda